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Bella’s Dream Five Watch Collection

September ’23



“Almosts”

BREGUET
CLASSIQUE CHRONOGRAPH 3237
FDSJAK;HF mm

ATELIER WEN X REVOLUTION
PERCEPTION – XI
Titanium 40mm

PANERAI
LUMINOR DUE LUNA
Blue 38mm
PAM01179

LAURENT FERRIER
SQUARE MICRO-ROTOR EVERGREEN
Stainless Steel 41mm

PARMESEANI FLEURIER
PERCEPTION – XI
Titanium 40mm

TUDOR
BLACK BAY 54
Steel, Black 37mm

Vintage

OMEGA CONSTELLATION
“Pie Pan”
Ref. 168.005
Stainless Steel, 35mm

ZENITH
ESPADA SUB SEA MOONPHASE
Ref. A7817 / 01.0040.418
Stainless Steel, 36mm

The Zenith Espada, though not the first chronograph, was the first automatic chronograph with a moon phase and full calendar.

Ref. 01.0040.418

With a case size of 38mm x 45mm at a 16.2mm thickness, this piece is bulkier than the current variations of the El Primero line but still has the EP style with the similar case shape and pushers. Only a couple of millimeters thicker than the El Primero, Zenith was able to incorporate the full calendar at 2 o’clock, 10 o’clock, and 4:30, and a moon phase, located at 6 o’clock. These references come in Stainless Steel, with the dial on the first edition (A7817) with silver accents and the second edition, with gold accents.

From 1972-1975, approximately 800 of these pieces were manufactured by Zenith, the first 300 marked as the A7817 reference and the remaining 500 as 01.0040.418.

Despite the limited number of these watches produced, the rarity of this watch is not as unique as the number suggests. From 1969-1983, Zenith was a part of MZM, a holding company who also owned two other watch brands, Movado and Mondia. These companies often shared movements, components, and designs under MZM, and this was apparent during the production of the Espada line.

Zenith was undergoing a trademark battle during this time, so MZM decided to brand some of their models with the Movado name in the States. Thus, the Movado Astronic had emerged, with differences even more minute than the A7817 vs the 01.0040.418 edition of this watch. Even with the same (and rare) Zenith 3019 PHF movement, the Astronic is the exact same watch, down to the former Zenith star logo on both casebacks in their first editions (Zenith A7817 and Movado 01.0010.436).

As pictured below, the Zenith Espada is on the left and the Movado Astronic is on the right.

The Zenith star on the casebacks of both the Espada and the Astronic first edition references are the same.

The most visible difference between these are the name and logo found on the dial and pushers, as well as the index design.

The piece I prefer is the A7817 iteration of the Espada, with the silver dial accents that make the face of the watch appear less cluttered and lets the colors on the hands stand out. This reference also has the old Zenith star on the back of the case, a detail that was ignored in the production of the 01.0040.418.

Zenith Espada Sub Sea Moonphase
Ref. A7817

Additionally, there are other references that still reference elements of this watch today. The Zenith Defy line also draws inspiration from the Espada Sub Sea Moonphase bezel with its 14-sided polygon shape. This made way for the 12-sided bezel on the more modern Defy references, maintaining the brand identity while also aligning itself with the integrated sports watch trend.

Zenith Defy Skyline
for reference only

i wish these were real

Brew, primarily for the espresso aspect of it. Current references are too rohan, not me.

A Lange et. Sohne Little Lange, but in Blue with a Moonphase. Asymmetrical preferred.

Breitling Navitimer, 36mm – 38mm chronograph, Cream dial and yellow or rose gold case.

Unique case with purple dial and the traditional roman numeral, IV, to represent the 4. Respected brand preferred.

The Amarnanis

JAEGER-LECOULTRE
REVERSO CLASSIC MONOFACE
Stainless Steel, White
40.1 x 24.4mm (Medium)
Ref. Q2548440

CARTIER
SANTOS DE CARTIER
Stainless Steel, White
35mm (Medium)
Ref. WSSA0029

A. LANGE & SöHNE
1815 UP/DOWN
18k White Gold, Blue
36mm (1997-2001)
Ref. 221.027

PANERAI
LUMINOR DUE
Steel, Anthracite Grey
38mm
Ref. PAM1247

VACHERON CONSTANTIN
HISTORIQUES AMERICAN 1921
White Gold, White
36.5mm (Small)
Ref. 1100S/000G-B734

with love, b

The Five

CARTIER
SANTOS DUMONT
Platinum, Salmon-pink
Ref. 1575-1

This is the 90th Anniversary reference, 27mm x 36mm, 90 made in total. Caliper 021MC, the thinnest watch for 21 years after its release in ’94.

BREITLING
NAVITIMER AUTOMATIC
Stainless Steel, White
Ref. A17327211G1P1

This reference is a new release of the Navitimer line, now in 36mm.

F.P. JOURNE
OCTA LUNE
Platinum, Whitened Silver
Ref. 136-04L

At 38mm, this reference is the third caliper ever created by F.P. Journe and was the first automatic movement for the brand. Made with a brass movement before the brand transitioned to the rose gold calibers. Produced in 2001.

ZENITH
EL PRIMERO
Stainless Steel, Metallic Blue
Ref. A788

One of the first references of the El Primero line, this 38mm piece at 13mm uses the rare 3019 PHC movement. This watch uses a manual wind and is characterized by its unique case shape and beautiful metallic blue.

PATEK PHILIPPE
“TASTI TONDI”
18k Yellow Gold, Salmon-Pink (Patina’d Silver)
Ref. 1463

This reference was the first waterproof chronograph in the Patek Philippe catalog. Produced in 1949 and released to the public a year later, this 34.5mm vintage piece has tall, round pushers that gave the watch its name.


See my guesses for Vivek’s September edition of his Dream Five Collection HERE.