Aged to Perfection
In October 2023, our Editor-in-Chief Vivek Amarnani checked out three watches iconic vintage pieces that aged with perfection – the Omega Speedmaster ‘Ed White,’ Rolex ‘Padellone’ Triple Calendar, and Patek Philippe ‘Tasti Tondi’ Chronograph.
For each “Collecting” feature, we’ll be taking a look at distinct, notable watches (from any era) that we are obsessed with, exploring their story and showing off some of our favorite references. By spotlighting these watches, we aim to bring attention to great watchmaking wherever we can find it.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER ‘ED WHITE’ REF. 105.003
Launched in 1964 and officially certified for spaceflight in 1965, the Ref. 105.003 is legendary for its use in the first ever American spacewalk by astronaut Ed White. This ‘Pre-Moon’ Omega Speedmaster is singular amongst its peers as it is the only timepiece certified for both spaceflight and spacewalks.
The very last of the ‘Pre-Professional’ Speedmaster references, the Ref. 105.003 was produced and sold from 1964 to 1969 in 39mm and 40mm stainless steel cases. The reference is not only iconic within watch history and space history, but in the history of the Speedmaster itself – fitted with the Caliber 321 and straight lugs, the ‘Ed White’ Speedmaster is decidedly unique when compared to the Speedmasters of the last 50 years, making it one of the most sought-after references for not only its history, but its physical characteristics and construction.
Featuring a stepped matte-black dial and the traditional tri-register layout with thin lumed pencil-style hands. Instantly recognizable, the Speedmaster Ref. 105.003 is a perfect canvas for patina. In most existing examples, yellowed indices and aged hands compliment faded bezels and worn cases, separating the Speedmaster as one of the most robust, timelessly classic tool watches of the 1960s.
ROLEX ‘PADELLONE’ TRIPLE CALENDAR REF. 8171
The Rolex Triple Calendar Ref. 8171 was introduced in the 1950s in the brand’s most ambitious era, where Rolex focused on creating durable tool watches meant for exploring, diving and sports usage. The mid-20th century was the true beginning to modern Rolex with the debut of the Submariner, Explorer, and GMT-Master, as well as the Day-Date and Lady Datejust. But amongst Rolex’s historic catalog, the Ref. 8171 is one of the brand’s most iconic timepieces, not only for its use of complications but also its rarity – only about 1000 examples were ever produced, with only 350 created in yellow gold.
One of the most complicated wristwatches of its time, the Rolex Ref. 8171 is equipped with both a triple calendar and a moonphase complication. The Ref. 8171 is one of only two Rolex triple calendars ever made and one of few Rolex timepieces ever designed with a moonphase complication. Colloquially referred to as the ‘Padellone,’ or ‘frying pan’ due to its uncommon three-dimensional convex dial, the Ref. 8171 is packaged in an 18 karat yellow gold case at a modern-sized 38mm. Day and month windows sit above the Rolex logo at the twelve o’clock position with an illustrated moonphase complication within the seconds subdial at six o’clock. Leaf hands are centrally mounted along with a single blue arrow hand used for the pointer-date implementation, with the dated blue numerals around the outer edge of the dial, surrounding the minute track and sharp triangle-shaped indices.
Grainy, brushed finishes on the sides of the case and lugs pair with a striking polished bezel to create a distinct avant-garde case. Aging shows most prominently on the dial – originally a paper-white color, most modern examples exhibit warm, yellow hues that pair well with the touches of blue on the moonphase and date complications.
PATEK PHILIPPE ‘TASTI TONDI’ CHRONOGRAPH REF. 1463
The ‘tondi’ pusher end-caps, originally derived from the Renaissance period’s ‘Tondo’ circular art style, serve as the Ref. 1463’s most notable visual cue but also as a technical achievement in their own right. Developed in the early 1940s, these round end-caps made the Ref. 1463 Patek’s first waterproof chronograph.
The case spans 35mm in diameter and 14mm tall with a domed crystal and screw-back case, examples of the 1463 were produced in yellow gold or stainless steel cases, silver, black, or two-tone dials, and blued leaf or dauphine hands. A tachymetre and graduated minute track line the outer edge of the dial, and railroad-style subdials sit at three and six o’clock. Only about 750 pieces were produced over the span of 25 years, with less than 20 examples elegantly adorned with Breguet numerals.
Nearly 80 years later, the ‘Tasti Tondi’ is not only one of the most iconic Patek Philippe timepieces ever but one of the most coveted chronographs ever created. Auctioned examples generally exhibit warm dial patinas and softened gold cases which contrast blued hands. As these timepieces age, they highlight the very qualities that have solidified Patek Philippe as perhaps the greatest maison in watchmaking history,
