In July 2023, our Editor-in-Chief Vivek Amarnani checked out four wildly unique watches; the discontinued Audemars Piguet Millenary, brand new reissued Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Revival, the independent masterpiece Winnerl Tremblage, and a new budget-friendly 38 mm diver from the well renowned Seiko 5 Sport collection.

For each “Collecting” feature, we’ll be taking a look at distinct, notable watches (from any era) that we are obsessed with, exploring their story and showing off some of our favorite references. By spotlighting these watches, we aim to bring attention to great watchmaking wherever we can find it.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Millenary

Contemporary in its approach yet classic in its execution, Audemars Piguet’s watchmaking prowess is on full display here. The traditional Millenary model is time-only, yet AP’s dedication to create an entirely complex watch elevates the format entirely. Delivered in a horizontal ovoid shape, the watch is asymmetric down to the small details – the handset of the hours-and-minutes subdial is offset and small seconds subdial overlaps the seven o’clock and eight o’clock hour markers (on certain references, the hour markers themselves are slanted) giving the handset a warped, surreal look.

Small screws can be seen on the front of open-worked/skeletonized references, drawing a through-line to the maison’s iconic Royal Oak model family, credited with popularizing the industrial sporty look. Despite these robust design elements, the Millenary is definitively refined and is decidedly a dress watch.

In 2023, the Millenary is effectively discontinued and only available through the resale market. Inspired by a 1951 design, the watch was introduced in 1995 as a contemporary piece commemorating the approaching third millenium.

The Millenary collection consisted of a wide variety of different case materials, dial configurations, and complications, with a common theme being AP’s dedication to use the Millenary as a canvas to do something completely unique. The collection includes one-hand models, dials blending Roman and Arabic numerals, the iconic AP StarWheel complication, rare opals, and more.

TAG HEUER CARRERA SKIPPER REVIVAL

One of TAG Heuer’s latest is a revival of an iconic 1968 Heuer Carrera ‘Skipper.’ The original model was made to celebrate the Intrepid yacht, winner of the 1967 America’s Cup race, and features a unique chronograph complication and dial that closely resembles the ship’s hull.

Larger than the original 35 mm Skipper case, this new edition arrives with the brand’s new ‘Glassbox’ case and crystal, which draws heavily from vintage chronographs. Despite this, the manageable 39 mm size and angled lugs, sharp beveling, and polished case make the Skipper Revival a great choice for modern taste.

The chronograph function in the watch is a unique 15-minute timing function, meant specifically for yacht races. It’s not a particularly useful chronograph register, but the charm of the complication remains true to the classic 1960s reference. The dial features a summery tri-color register, blue radial brush finish, framed date window, and reads SKIPPER within the nine o’clock register.

WINNERL TREMBLAGE

Handmade by independent watchmaker Bernhard Zwinz, the Winnerl Tremblage is designed, constructed, and finished to the highest degree possible. Named and inspired by 19th century watchmaker J. TH. Winnerl, the Tremblage retains several noteworthy elements from Winnerl’s original marine chronometers, including the twelve o’clock small seconds and bowl-shaped balance wheel.

The dial’s tremblage texture is made by tapping a burin tool across the dial surface over 200,000 times. Because of this, each piece made has a subtly unique tremblage texture. Polished Roman numerals and a railroad (or chemin de fer) minute track surround the outer edge, the minute track being constructed from a single piece of 18kt gold. Slim blue Breguet hands complete the classic dress design. While having many design elements akin to classic design, the timepiece still feels distinctly modern, mostly due to the brilliant contemporary finishing on display on the watch’s dial.

The Tremblage truly comes to life under sunlight, as light shimmers on and around each of the dial’s individual divots and cavities. The gold minute track and indices blend into the dial’s texture in certain lighting conditions, effectively disappearing. When ‘revealed’ at the proper angle, the effect is subtle and alluring.

SEIKO 5 SPORTS ‘SPRK COLLECTION’

Seiko expanded their popular Seiko 5 Sports collection earlier this year by introducing new 38 mm references of the Seiko 5 Sports. At the 38 mm case size with a 44.2 mm lug to lug measurement and a thickness of 12.1 mm, these new Seiko divers will fit just about any wrist, especially compared to the existing wrist-friendly 42.5 mm Seiko 5 Sports GMT watches.

Available in an array of subtle sunburst dial colors including black, champagne, teal, and orange, the watches are perfect options for the summer – well equipped with a 100 m water resistance rating. The unidirectional elapsed time bezel, bold white indices, and large legible handset all lend a sporty, casual dive-watch look, as does the stainless steel bracelet. As with all Seiko 5 watches, the day and date windows are visible at three o’clock and the Seiko 5 logo remains at twelve.

This move to a smaller case size for this popular line is a huge, strong move from Seiko. At only $325 USD, Seiko delivers yet another reliable diving watch suited for the every-man, though with bold fun colors that could grab attention from across the room. If you can go up in price about $100 USD, the Seiko 5 Sports GMT delivers an almost identical package but with the addition of a GMT complication.