Definitive Dress Icons

In August 2023, our Editor-in-Chief Vivek Amarnani checked out three watches that embody the refined qualities that allow dress watches to be timeless icons; the A Lange et Sohne 1815 Moonphase ‘Homage to F.A. Lange’ as well as the Audemars PIguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar and the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique.

For each “Collecting” feature, we’ll be taking a look at distinct, notable watches (from any era) that we are obsessed with, exploring their story and showing off some of our favorite references. By spotlighting these watches, we aim to bring attention to great watchmaking wherever we can find it.

LANGE & SOHNE 1815 MOONPHASE ‘HOMAGE TO F.A. LANGE’

Celebrating the brand’s founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, A Lange et Sohne’s 165th anniversary release included this piece – the 1815 Moonphase.

The Honeygold case, forged from Lange’s proprietary blend of metals, is delivered in a 37.5mm circular format. The mid-case is lightly brushed with a brownish hue in contrast to a satin-finished domed bezel, topped with a slightly domed sapphire crystal. A signed Honeygold crown and 10 o’clock moonphase corrector surround the outer edge of the timepiece.

Adorned in classic Lange fashion, the galvanized sterling silver dial is finished to the highest degree. A [rose lathe] guilloché pattern radiates from the center of the dial towards the black Arabic numerals and chemin de fer minutes track (railroad-style) – all hallmarks of the 1815 collection. Blue alpha-style hours and minutes hands exhibit classic Lange style pairing with a blue leaf-style seconds hand, lying within the 4 o’clock small seconds subdial. Lying at the 8 o’clock position is the moon phase subdial, colored in a brilliant blue with a moon phase disk made from gold.

The 21-jewel movement within is the in-house L943.2, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The 45-hour power reserve is fairly standard for Lange’s other manual wind calibres. As is customary for A Lange et Sohne’s acclaimed movements, a host of decoration can be observed from the sapphire exhibition caseback. Reminiscent of classic pocket-watch movements, the calibre features heat blued screws, decorated gold chatons, mirror-finish anglage on the bridges, and a hand-engraved balance bridge. A large bridge is made of a proprietary blend resembling Germanic silver, decorated with a hand-etched text reading ‘A Lange et Sohne.’ The black-polished swan neck regulator and overcoil hairspring are seated within the movement.

AUDEMARS PIGUET QUANTIEME PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Holy Trinity watchmaker Audemars Piguet is little more than a Royal Oak company in 2023, but at one point they were one of the premiere brands for classically designed ultra-thin perpetual calendars. AP’s Quantieme Perpetual Calendar has a rich history, serving as one of the brand’s keystone models that kept the brand afloat during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s. The model line was launched in 1978 and was designed by Jacqueline Dimier – the famed protégé of the iconic Gérald Genta.

Produced in hundreds of variations ranging a variety of precious metals, dial colors and finishes, and small iterative case alterations, the pieces highlighted here are just a few of the extensive catalog from AP’s past.

The basic details are nearly uniform across the board: a 36mm case made of precious metal, a thickness between 7mm and 7.8mm, an ultra-thin 2120/2800 automatic perpetual calendar calibre, and four symmetrical subdials featuring the complications that make up a perpetual calendar timepiece.

Quantième Perpétuel, 25657, Rose Gold

This reference was produced from 1982-1993 as one of the earliest releases of the Quantième Perpétuel model line. Only 362 pieces were made in the rose gold case shown.

The timepiece contains the Calibre 2120/2 based on a legendary JLC 920 movement, which was eventually used simultaneously by all three members of the Holy Trinity – Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe.

Within the recessed subdials, the watch displays the month, date, day and moon-phase. Blued hands match the dark blue moonphase display, while the moon itself is color matched to the circular case and lugs. The bezel surrounding the sapphire crystal is designed in vintage fashion, vaguely resembling stair steps.

Quantième Perpétuel ‘Tuscan’ dial, 25657, Platinum

Only 128 examples were produced of this reference 25657 in platinum casing during its 11 years of production. Produced with a granular blue dial, the reference is one of the rarest members of the Quantième Perpétuel model line.

Sharing the same movement, case design, and dial layout as other 25657 pieces, this platinum-cased variation is sought after for its striking blue dial. Textured and dynamic with smoothly-finished subdials and outerchapter, this reference has a unique ability to play with light and reflections. All hands are forged of platinum and dial text is applied or printed in white, retaining legibility and furthering the sense of cohesion within a dial containing various shades and finishes of blue.

Quantième Perpétuel, Edition Spéciale 25661/002, Yellow Gold

This special edition Quantième Perpétuel was created to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the model. AP produced only 50 examples, making it one of the rarest in the model line.

This edition features a Mother of Pearl dial, making each of the 50 pieces unique – some may feature slight natural imperfections on their dials, such as hairline marks. Sharing the case and dial designs with the Ref. 25657, this reference features yellow-gold hands for timekeeping and blued hands to match the blue applied markers within the subdials. The effervescent quality of the stone dial compliments the applied yellow gold indices and the deep blue of the moonphase to establish a dressy, classic appearance reminiscent of the 1950s and 1960s.

RALPH LAUREN SLIM CLASSIQUE

The Ralph Lauren company’s history in jewelry and wristwatches dates back to only 2008, but unlike many other fashion houses, Ralph Lauren seems to be dedicated to the craft and history of watchmaking. The Slim Classique was introduced in 2012 through the brand’s collaboration with Richemont Group and was met with praise – though not much widespread interest. Watch enthusiasts were skeptical of yet another fashion brand entering the luxury watch world – and that’s if they had even caught word of the release of a Ralph Lauren watch collection.

Yet the beauty and sensibilities shown by Ralph Lauren are undeniably impressive when observing the Slim Classique. Their intentions were clear; Ralph Lauren wanted to create a refined, elegant dress watch that drew inspiration from the style of the 1920s – a time when, interestingly enough, wristwatches were not yet popular – all whilst being impeccably constructed and standing on its own as a true luxury timepiece. Simply put, Ralph Lauren succeeded.

The Slim Classique arrives 38mm and 42mm variations with cases made from 18k rose or white gold, the smaller variation standing at just 5.10mm tall while the larger reference is 5.35mm in thickness. The dials are made of silvery opaline and engulfed in intricate barleycorn guilloche to pair with the thick Roman numerals. As a time only watch, the only hands present are the black, oxidized Breguet-style hour and minute hands. The surrounding bezel is slightly downward sloped and likewise intricately decorated, made to compliment the dial’s guilloche with its own swirling blend of lines and finishes. Short, thin lugs hold a black alligator leather in place, effectively aiming to direct all visual attention to the glamorous dial.

Inside the Slim Classique is the RL430, produced by watchmaker Piaget, renowned for their watches and perhaps best for their ultra-thin movements. The hand-wound calibre beats at 21,000 vibrations per hour (3Hz) with a nearly 40 hour power reserve, and contains 131 components and 18 jewels. The watch features a closed case-back, shielding the wearer from view of the calibre’s Côtes de Genève and perlage. The inclusion of an ultra-thin Piaget movement inspires great confidence, as Piaget is undoubtedly one of the premiere watchmakers in the world and highly acclaimed for their movement technology and technical finishing.

Ralph Lauren’s Slim Classique is incredibly thin, handsome, and striking. Designed to match the sensibilities of the Ralph Lauren brand, the timepiece is neither subtle nor versatile, but made to represent a classically elegant ‘bygone’ era of fashion and watchmaking. For those looking for something truly different, the Slim Classique is an excellent luxury dress option.